The Mulroy, in Edinburgh’s West End, this could be my new favourite Restaurant!

Last week a fellow foodie had flagged up The Mulroy in William Street, a new-ish fine dining restaurant that seemed to have opened somewhat ‘below the radar’ back in September, from her description my interest was already piqued, an eccentric owner is always good value if there’s one on offer! (this particular one is apparently of Eastern European descent with a claim to Romanov ancestry) Bizarrely, just a couple of hours after first hearing about The Mulroy I received an email from their PR consultant asking if I might like to try it. (I actually regretfully declined the offer, along with a couple others I had received, but not without getting hold of the press release and a look at the menu, I was already hooked and wanting more).

Inside the Mulroy

Boasting ex L’escargot Bleu Head Chef, Damien Rolain and being about 5 mins from the office, it was never going to be long before I took a wee visit and when Surfpunk suggested we go out for lunch to get a proposal together, there wasn’t much persuading on where we should go.

On arrival, and with no booking, it became quite obvious that the things I’d already heard and read were pretty spot on and the bordering-disdainful hauteur of the maitre d only amused us and made me even more gleeful at the prospect of our lunch to follow!

The decor is refined fine-dining meets country estate, with gorgeously dressed tables boasting gleaming silver that can only be the result of a daily dose of elbow grease, share the room with heavy wooden furniture, taxidermy and for the eagle eyed a risque picture or two (look in the men’s loo!).

The Mulroy’s decor

The lunch menu itself was beautifully composed, we could cheerfully have had anything on the menu (except the mussels for me), both of us reading things out with ‘oohs & ahhs’. In fact it’s so good, I just need to share it with you…be warned you will drool!

Starters

Seabass carpaccio, passion fruit & satsuma vinaigrette, beetroot & granny smith apple

Inverary venison terrine, braised quince & dry fruit chutney, rosemary fougasse

Warm Scottish hare & spinach ‘caillette’ parcel, lardons & puy lentils stew

Marinated Shetland salmon, leek salad, vodka & horseradish cream, poppy seed stick

Mains

Braised lamb shoulder, roast Winter vegetable & potato fricasee, cinammon jus

Chestnut & rosemary stuffed Confit pork belly, turnip ‘sauerkraut’, herb gnocchi, cumin jus

Inverary goats cheese, mushrooms, spinach & almond ‘Wellington’, beetroot caramel, roast potatoes

Roast fillet of sea-bream, Shetland mussels, and saffron risotto, coriander coulis

Smoked haddock & Yukon Gold potato ‘brandade’ pie, spinach, garlic croutons & green salad

Several mind-changes later we both ordered exactly the same! Two times the hare & puy lentils and two times the pork belly, double-double yum! and a glass of Rioja to accompany it (it would have been a terrible waste not to).

Warm Scottish hare & spinach ‘caillette’, lardons & puy lentil stew

Warm luscious poppy seed bread smothered in butter and cucumber infused water freshened our palates while we eagerly anticipated our imminent feast.

As soon as the hare arrived it was the start of an intoxicating assault on the senses. We were ‘hugged’ and enveloped by a rich aromatic and sumptuous ‘cloud’ and it tasted even better! And so the sigh’s began! Surfpunk was so enamoured with it he excitedly declared “I want to make love to my dinner!”

Confir pork belly stuffed with chestnuts & rosemary, turnip, ‘sauerkraut’ herb gnocchi, cinammon jus

It was no different when the mains arrived, again, refined presentation and a taste sensation that comes so rarely. We could quite happily have remained there all afternoon. Luckily we had a lot of business (ahem) to discuss so thought desserts and coffee the way to go.

Valrhona dark chocolate creme brulee

I’m going to have to share the dessert options with you as well….

Valrhona dark chocolate creme brulee, coffee granita, langues de chat

Roast fig, cinnamon and almonds frangipane tart, pistachio creme anglaise

Apple and braised quince tart ‘Tatin’ with vanilla ice cream

Vanilla panacotta, orange carpaccio, cardamon and orange soup

Selection of local and French cheeses with oatcakes and chutney

At the mere sight of Valrhona chocolate Surfpunk went into paroxyms of delight, and it all looked so damned tasty that even dessert-shy as I usually am, the intrigue of a pistachio creme anglaise was too much to resist. The delighted squeaks and sighs continued and I think if every dessert was as fluffy, light and tasty as that frangipane I could be converted! The silver coffee pot on the table for a top-up was also a nice touch!

Roast fig, cinnamon & almonds frangipane tart

It was exquisite, every single last morsel. Clever, exciting food combinations and elegant presentation created one of my favourite dining experiences to date. Perfect fodder to bring some warmth in to a cold winter’s day. The noises that we were emitting could have been construed to be highly indecent but we couldn’t stop and our smiles didn’t fade all afternoon. In fact our boss and his wife were planning their visit for the very next day.

I can’t wait to go back and try the á la carte menu along with a more generous helping of the old red stuff to wash it down. I can’t recommend you try this absolute find heartily enough and at £13.50 for 2 courses on the lunch time menu it’s an absolute steal! Just don’t expect a highly effusive greeting, service or farewell!

The Mulroy, 11a-13a William Street, Edinburgh, EH3 7NG 0131 225 6061

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,

3 Responses to “The Mulroy, in Edinburgh’s West End, this could be my new favourite Restaurant!”

  1. December 2, 2011 at 9:01 pm #

    Nadine: Spot on.

    @CarolCoulter and I went for lunch today.

    As you described above: “…exciting food combinations and elegant presentation created one of my favourite dining experiences to date.”

    Couldn’t agree more.

    The standard of cooking is outstanding, the environment/interior design: adroitly judged and classy, the service, (depending on who’s serving you), polished/straight out of central casting surly/’allo, ‘allo/charming.

    On our visit, it was also a wonderful snapshot of New Town old money, digital new money, yummy mummy/girly lunch dates, oh and me and the missus. Not sure what category we fit.

    We decided, even though it was a school day, to have a swally, and appreciated the fact that a) there were some sensibly selected/priced wines on the main list, b) there was also a bin-end list of wines.

    As a tight-fisted,Yorkshireman, living in Scotland, (triple tautology surely?), I was delighted with the recommendation of a 16 quid Spanish red, to go with our food.

    Which was, by the by, the pork belly (as you had), for the missus, and the lamb shoulder for me.

    Incidentally for starters we has cured salmon with vodka, (guess who went for that), and the robust, but refined, if that’s possible (it is here), terrine.

    And yes we had pud.

    Yes with a glug of dessert wine. Which the missus loved the ‘nose’ of so much, not to mention the taste, that she said it reminded her of an expensive perfume.

    Yes we will be back.

    With everyone we know who loves good grub.

    ps. How do you know about the naughty photography in the gents? 🙂

    • December 3, 2011 at 12:39 pm #

      Brilliant, so pleased you enjoyed it! It’s such a find i’ve been telling everyone! In fact, I believe 2 other tables in there at the same time were people I’d been telling about it!

      Re the naughty pics, you have SurfPunk to thank for that! Meant to go back & see if there was an equivalent for the ladies’ pleasure! Next time….

Trackbacks/Pingbacks

  1. Where I’ve been pigging out recently (part 2) | Eating My Way Around Edinburgh - December 21, 2011

    […] to resume in the near future. (well apart from our Xmas party in Chop-Chop and a return visit to The Mulroy for lunch today that is! Share this:FacebookEmailTwitterPrintStumbleUponDiggRedditLike this:LikeBe […]

Leave a Reply